MultiTool oil

Older test on oil i did, i have used the multitool oil for many years. I only use this.

Victorinox recommend using warm water when cleaning a SAK, if you worry about the soap for the galvanic issue, then just use water. I personally use some mild soap when cleaning a SAK. Rinse very well. I have never had any problem with galvanic damage.

 Victorinox-multitool oil

 Durability

 Corrosion resistance

 My impressions

Used over 3 years

Use only this oil now, when storing Swiss Army Knives this oil will last for years.

On knives under use it will last long enough for functionality, if knife is in pocket the body temperature will/can make part of the oil flow out over the function but this is no problem.

Very good resistance against corrosion and stains, much better than other brands. From before I have used others on stainless and carbon-steel knives with not good result, rust or stains could happen.

So I tried the Multitool oil on the knives and I am especially happy about the Carbon-steel, there is no rust starting at all.

I find that after I got this oil It is a luxury for the knives, for a collector and user it is important, smelly and toxic-oils is not recommended at all.

All together I have used around 3 bottles and on number 4 now.

I am happy about this and hopefully it will still be produced.

Taste and smell free is a safety feature.

Spray cans can not be used on Swiss Army Knives, almost impossible to get the right amount of oil(most of sprays is not the best lubricators)

Other uses

Carbon-steels, Wenger knives and other Multitool brands. Very good for Leatherman tools also. Helle and Brusletto with top result.

Last Wenger I cleaned I thought the integrated spring had been damaged somehow since it would not work after cleaning, after oil the scissor was like new.

Very good

Wd-40, Diamond and  Weapond oils is only good for special cleaning but not for Swiss Army Knives at all. There is inexpencive vegetable oils of course. Still this is my choice.

Special features

We have had a cold period now again and since i last used the Fireman and last night aswell at -16/17 degrees Celsius the oil is still enough around the friction-points.

The special tube or point on the oil bottles is a real luxury.

 

No negative to say, only that maybe a bigger refill bottle could be nice to have.

When I have found older used knives it is often that the functions is so dirty that people have a hard time opening them, usually this is just that a very good cleaning and oil make them work very good again.

Water

 

No rust or other stains with this oil, important to clean tools after use around salt-water.

 

I have cleaned knives that I had used this oil on, I use alittle  warm soapy water and rinse proper, the thicker consistency makes this a kind of layer oil, instead of a micro thin layer that disappear right away one get a oil that will disappear layer by layer. So alittle more cleaning is needed with this oil.

Other brands I have used seem to disappear very fast, this last. And the micro thin layer for protecting sad by them does not work. It is my impression that protecting oils for storage need to have a thicker consistency.

 

 

WD-40.

Not matter what is written on the internet about WD-40, it works for removing rust or dirt from a SAK. I just would not use it on knives because it is difficult to use a spray and it is smelly. If one have a knife in the pocket it will damage clothes. I do not believe WD-40 can or will damage the knife, i have used it for cleaning very dirty knives.

 

 

29.10.2020

A good while ago I made this page about Victorinox Multitool oil. Another page I made from 2018 about oils and lubricants. Please check it out it would make me glad. I continue to use all the mentioned products. I still have not found any problem with using the Victorinox MT oil. On carbon steel it is always best to use Vaseline or mineral oils to be sure. If your carbon steel blade got rust then you should use things like Ballistol and so forth. Most of my pocket knives are stainless steel so the Victorinox is the best for this. I usually always use the mineral medicinal type oil on carbon steel or on things that can rust easily. It is a big advantage with odor free oils on SAKs and Swiss knives. The best on pocket knives is the thicker consistency types. The key with Carbon steel is to have it clean and dry. With some mineral oil on it if it is without rust is smart. It is important not to use the Victorinox oil on knives that already got corrosion or rust. I personally have never had any problems but I am always ahead in time. Some store carbon blades out of the sheath. I also made another page about Swiza that it also like the thicker consistency better..

17:45

I have also tested to see if the Victorinox MT oil does anything to phosphor bronze washers. I could not see any damage after many years. Some oils can affect the speed performance when opening the blade quickly.  Basically on all stainless steel folders, pocket knives and multitools the Victorinox oil is the best without any doubts. It is actually an important factor with consistency. Ballistol also got a bit consistency. It is absolutely a wonderful oil! In my experience the absolute best maintenance is having the blade clean and dry with some oil on the friction parts only. Carbon steel may like a coating but in my experience it must be clean and dry before storage. I have a collection of carbon blades too. On wood the carbons steels are the absolute best yet in general.

18:05

I hope you enjoy my research and pages.  I would also like to write a few words about the corona virus. It is important to do all the extra precautions recommended by the governments. Have courage and patience. Stay safe!

 

18:36

 

To finish up today I can inform some factors for collectors of older pocket knives from the world. I have the philosophy that pocket knives and especially the versatile ones with functions must be stainless. It is a nightmare to collect pocket knives without stainless steel. The reason for this is that they are very difficult to find without corrosion or rust. If you should find one that is spotless then it is ok unless you use it much.  The invention of stainless steel is the whole thing for me. It is the number one milestone. You can also find pocket knives with stainless blade while the spring is not. Usually this spring got rust. It could be little or much. Some of the springs got extra coatings or surface protection. This helps. The type of oil one should use on pocket knives with much rust is different compared to maintenance. It is very difficult to clean knives with corrosion on. Many times one must take them apart to be sure. While pocket knives made of stainless steel is much easier to clean.

"Pocket knives with many functions that is not stainless i stay far away from"

 

 

 

30.10.2020

There are many things that develop with use and experience. Swiss knives got a quality selection of stainless steel. This is a very important factor because of all the knives with functions from all over the world it is only one country that is the best. The Swiss knives are alone on top. The polished parts and quality materials gives this ability to stand the tests of time. On fixed blades in my country the Helle stainless and Brusletto stand the tests of time.

If you notice on the Hunter Pro knives made by Victorinox you can see the blades got a different surface. It is not polished as the regular knives. The blade material is stainless and the construction is solid with only one blade. It is a very high quality folder. A one blade folder is easy to clean and maintain. On SAK and blades with wood handle I would take some extra care with cleaning. The wood is treated well but I would not soak it in warm water. In my opinion wood handle knives is not in the same level as plastic or metal handles. They are very beautiful! I would also not soak them in WD-40 or Ballistol. I would only use some mineral oil or The Victorinox MT oil on the friction parts. Some would use boiled linseed oil on the wood after years when it is getting dry. There are also other types that could be better. The wood handle SAKs and knives are probably treated in a way that goes through completely. I would not exaggerate the maintenance on wood with oils and such.

“To mention carbon steels again then the key is: clean and dry blade with a thin coating of mineral oil” Then storage or use.....

 09:24

On traditional fixed blades including Helle and Brusletto handles there are many things that can be used. Many times it is boiled linseed oil used from the factories. In my opinion it is very good and easy to apply if you restore or maintain them. There also many good products from the furniture industry that can be used. Basically it is a different world compared to a versatile pocket knife with functions. Oils that get the hardened surface must never be used inside the mechanism on SAKs. The scales are also many times glued and therefore hot water and exaggeration with oils can affect the glue. On some SAKs it is also used a super strong tape. Wenger used this and they are durable. Many wonder about the word "tape". It is super strong I guarantee.

SAKs use wood scales and that is a big difference compared to a traditional Scandi handle with wood.

 

 

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29.11 | 21:40

Hi, thank you very much for question. I am not sure. I know there are modders that manage unbelievable things. BR

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29.11 | 17:26

Hi again trond. Was wondering if you could put scissors from the Classic SD onto a tinker? Thank you

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26.11 | 16:24

Hi, thank you very much for question. The brass rivets/pins should be the same on the 91mm if same age. There could be some diff. tolerances.
BR Trond

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26.11 | 16:16

Hello Trond. Are the copper rivets on the Victorinox Huntsman and the Deluxe Tinker the same? Thank you

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