Ok folks! Let us do some more information regarding restoration of Swiss Army Knives, MTs and other pocket knives. There are different levels on how much restoration you want to do on them and it
depends on how worn and dirty it is. If you have a rule that knives you collect are not bent or broken and that the springs looks intact then usually it is only required to do some sharpening, very good cleaning with water and soap, rinse very well and use
some Victorinox oil on the friction parts. In some cases a simple swap of the handle scales as well can bring a SAK back to almost new condition, if not at least you restore 100% functionality. If the main knife blade is broken and the rest looks intact you
can re-profile it do a design you like and still get many years of use out of it.
If you have a SAK or MT that looks intact but is very dirty and got corrosion on the stainless steel parts
then you got some wonderful tools with Ballistol and WD-40 + several other types. I know some soak the knives overnight and the result of this is that rust and corrosion will become easy to remove with some cloth and rubbing. Aggressive substances can be acidic
and or cause reactions to metals used on SAK and this must be removed to protect it, restore functionality and appearance. Aggressive substances or acidic substances will be neutralized with ballistol. Some substances and dirt sit so hard that only WD-40 or
Ballistol can dissolve it. Water and soap may not be good enough for removing all dirt and substances. If you use oil on friction parts then you make it much more difficult for aggressive substances and corrosion to attach.
In many cases to restore shine to stainless steel you can also use toothpaste or Autosol. The last mentioned will be better to remove surface discolorations and rust (corrosion).
Remember that using this you will get a different shine to the metal and therefore you can use it on all functions to make it similar. If you want that is. Autosol can also be used to polish scratches on the plastic handle scales by using a fine cloth. Damaged
or cracked plastic scales are not easy to restore. Cellidor and plastics used on SAKs can be polished to some degree and you get a good result. All metals and stainless steels included develop a certain surface change. On stainless steels this is not much
but some will come in time anyhow. Aluminum are anodized to protect it from further oxidation and it is not recommended to use any scratching device on the aluminum because the surface protects itself with a layer from the anodization and the reaction to air
naturally. If you see a white substance or a layer that is dry and white then it is or can be the aluminum. If the functionality is full then it is no problem and it will disappear during cleaning and by using a soft brush. Disrupted surfaces on the aluminum
that cause the functions to be stuck and or be very difficult to open then it may be damaged so much that it cannot be restored unless you open and close the functions hundreds of times and using oil. In most cases when this happen you must disassemble the
SAKs. In my experience most SAKs you find used only require a light cleaning, sharpening and using some Victorinox oil on friction parts.
If the edges on the knives are gone or got
chips and damages you can put on a completely new edge. You can use different angles on them depending on what you need or like. If you do it by freehand then you will automatically get some variations on the edge angles. Use a coarse diamond stone first if
the edge requires removing much metal to get into the blade away from chipped and damages areas. When you have a coarse edge then you use a fine surface diamond stone also dry to make the edge smooth and sharper. The last strokes you use a sharper angle.
If you want to preserve the SAKs that are older without altering the shine or patina on any metal parts or handles then you only use a little warm water and soap, rinse very well and then use some oil
on the friction parts. The Victorinox oil got little influence on the surface patina on stainless steels and handle sides. If you want to protect all patina 100% then some store the SAKs dry only. This depends on humidity and where you live.
On the internet you can find Victorinox SAKs sold together with a little Bottle of Ballistol. It can be smart to have a spray option with the thin tube so you can reach tight areas or mechanisms and flush out
substances. If you want to remove any remains of WD-40 and Ballistol after restoration then you must use a soft paper to wipe off as much you can before using a little warm water and soap two times at least. Then rinse very much and wipe/dry it.
If you look upon restorations with some science at least from my information when you clean with
a little warm water you get substances to release. If you use some soap then you will also stop aggressive substances and reactions to some degree. By using Ballistol and other oils you neutralize chemical relations, acidic and aggressive substances. The result
after the complete process restoring mentioned above today you give the SAK or MT new start by stopping all reactions between materials. Ballistol cannot from information damage any metals. If things are plated then it could come between and lift plated things.
Depending on the amount you put on over time. From my information I have never heard it causing any damage to SAKs(alox included). It will clean away patina and make metals shiny again. It removes traces/markings/patina on metals on weapons and so on. It can
be used to clean brass without any damage. Then I again I never use any other oil than Victorinox for SAKs, Alox and MTs over time. This is because of the better consistency for the friction parts. Ballistol is wonderful and very good oil and that it is not
dangerous if you get some on foods and that it disinfects is something really important in deed.
Victorinox oil is completely food safe, odorless and it preserves the frictions parts and secures the best functionality. It prevents corrosion for sure. It is completely harmless.